A delicate “oer-Hollandse” cuisine
Background
Floreyn is the old Dutch word (spelled as florijn) for gulden, the currency predating the Euro in The Netherlands. In light of that it is not surprising that Floreyn serves Dutch cuisine, and not just Dutch food but modern Dutch cuisine in a delicate way. When thinking of Dutch cuisine, I tend to think of “stamppot” (by which I am sort of traumatized), but Floreyn proves that Dutch cuisine has so much more to offer than that!
When I walked into Floreyn, I was surprised by how incredibly well the restaurant was styled: a nice combination of cosy, wood, green, fresh and smooth design. Dutch elements are subtly included in the interior: a bicycle artwork, gold (for the Golden Age), the typical Rijks-blue and even a potato. Besides the interior, the wine list also includes various Dutch wines and Floreyn offers Dutch variations of known cocktails, such as Jenever cocktails.
The food
Now, let’s get to the food! The focus of the dishes is a typical Dutch product, which is prepared in a modern style with the use of many different techniques and influences. The dishes include high quality products and good, well-balanced combinations of flavors. Floreyn shows a new interpretation of products that have been used for ages in Dutch cuisine and this interpretation is super refreshing.
In combination with the food, delicious international wines are served. We started with a Dutch pinot gris blended with sauvignier gris that accompanied the rollmops (variation of herring). Besides this pinot gris blend, Floreyn also offers other Dutch wines. As you might know, The Netherlands is not a typical wine country. However, Floreyn managed to pick great wines that are as good as wines from traditional wine countries. There are no forced Dutch products in this restaurant! For example, Floreyn also served a foie gras with parsnip cream, pear, a crumble of coffee and foam made of tonka beans. This dish was perfect for the transition from savory to sweet.
Conclusion
My conclusion: if you want to overcome your stamppot trauma and want to embrace the Dutch cuisine (again), visit Floreyn! But even if you do not suffer from traumatic Dutch cuisine experiences, you should go to Floreyn to experience the new, refreshing interpretation of Dutch traditional cooking. Especially when having friends over from abroad, this is the perfect place to give a nice insight into the Dutch kitchen.
My favorite dish(es)
Again, two dishes that made me smile from ear to ear:
- Rolmops acidified in red beetroot juice, smoked yoghurt and dill, cream of shallot, puffed rye, pickle and ice cream made from horseradish.
- Wild duck with cream of chervil, salsify, a gel of sea-buckthorns and jus de veau with liquorice.
Highlights
Floreyn serves a very special and exclusive champagne that was made by a couple of Dutch friends who, after trying for years, finally were allowed to use the appellation d’origine contrôlée. They managed to master the traditional method and came up with an eccentric champagne. The champagne was served with the dessert.
Also, the new angle that Floreyn applies in its dishes combined with the subtle Dutch elements in the restaurant are really worth visiting. Whether you love the Dutch cuisine or not, you will fall in love with Floreyn.
Albert Cuypstraat 31, 1072 CL Amsterdam (The Netherlands)
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